Commercial SEAL INC Jumbo 150 Dry Mounting & Laminating Press ESCO Tubeless Breaker Bead Seal Manual Press Hand Tire Changer Mounting Tool.
Used Tec-Nall Mechanical Heat Press, Masterpiece 500 T 500 T-X Press, Seal 150 Seal 210M Jumbo Dry Mount Press Used Framing Equipment: Mat Cutters, Moulding Cutting & Joining Equipment, Mounting Presses, Hand Tools We buy & sell pre-owned picture framing equipment. We also help you to sell your used framing equipment, and help you save on equipment that you may need.
All Items are sold 'As Is'. Although we strive to obtain the best information from the seller, AIM is not responsible for inaccuracies provided to us by seller. It is the responsibility of the buyer to crosscheck information with seller or manufacturer regarding descriptions that appear in this catalog. Do you have Questions? Feel free to our office at 330-405-9421 or email us at info@skylinepictures.com Pre-owned Framing Equipment - Dry Mount Presses page # 102 Section 1: Mounting Equipment (Note: newest listings appear on latter pages) Skip to Page: - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - All Items On This Page Are Sold - See Latter Pages For Newest Listings.
I just got an older Seal Jumbo 150 dry mount press in 16' x 20' size. When plugged in and turned on, the red light blinks, temperature seems to come up, but I don't get a green light and the temp setting rheostat doesn't seem to function to affect the heat cycle. It seems to be in good shape, clean, good platen and pad. There are no obvious signs of neglect or abuse and it is definately sturdy. Does anyone have some experience with this press? I would like to correspond with someone who has used this type of press and could answer a few questions for me.
If there is a problem, I can probably trouble shoot and fix the thing, but I would like to know what 'normal function' is and how it should behave before I start to tinker with it. If the heating elements are working, the problem is most probably a poor, bad, corroded, or otherwise open connector. It could be in the indicator circuit, like a burned out pilot lamp - naw it couldn't be that simple. I think some of these units can be wired for 220 or 110 volts.
One wired for 220 but connected to 110 circuit might give the operation you are perceiving. How hot dos it get? I think it could be repaired at home if you have a volt-ohm meter (Ohm?) and some patience. I wish I could be there. Truly, dr bob.
I know so little about electricity lol. I know we have 20A fuses in our circuit box. I also noticed (after the lights came back on ) that the on/off switch won't stay in the on position (or off position- I'm not sure, it isn't marked). I'll have a look inside the box where the chord connects to the unit.
Maybe it IS just a short. Netgear N300 Wireless Router Wnr2000v5 Wps there. Now that I think about it, what had happened was I plugged it in, noticed the red and green lights, checked to make sure it started to heat up, and then turned it off at the switch (I MIGHT have unplugged it instead of actually turning it off *sigh*). THAT'S when the lights went out, the power switch stays in one position, and there was a spark at the outlet.
From then on whenever I plugged it in, the lights went out. That does kind of sound like a short. I hope I didn't damage the unit. I guess I should also buy an operators manual. It came without one. Any more advise??
Thanks for the response. In United States, the electrical code requires 12 gauge wires be used for wiring supporting 20 amps total. 14 gauge for 15 amp circuits. It's actually not as simple as this but this is the basic. Under sized wiring causes voltage drop, heat build-up, etc. In some older homes, there were instances home owners needed more amperage delivered to their sockets.